Jegs sport stars etc...etc...

[ArtQ]

I have been following info on these wheels but one of the things I have yet to see is an actuall weight on these things...Anybody?

[chad05gt]

They for damn sure aint Bogarts!


But, (im guessing) about 1/2 the weight of stockers; I could be wrong...

Ill try and get them on a scale tomorrow.

[ShadyZealot]

Never weighted my fronts... But they are obviously lighter.

As for my rears they are only 2 lb lighter then the stock 17s. Yeah not much weight difference at all. But i wanted them to match the fronts, and it gave me more sidewall.

Overall cheap, but bogarts are def the way to go if you have the money.

My rear wheels also didnt just "Bolt on" I had to grind the calipers a bit. same with the fronts even with the spacers. Oh and dont dare try to use stick on weights on the inside of the wheel.

[chad05gt]

Spacers... I run 3/8 front and 1/8 in rear.

Rear, dont NEED to... but... if wipe out axel gear, or anything gets sloppy in the diff... there isnt much tolerance... will likley lock the wheel; so, Im just a little more safe, than WALL!

[ArtQ]

Overall cheap, but bogarts are def the way to go if you have the money.

Big problem

Too much of my budget was spent on "clutch research" for the past few years, pisses me off, could have a set of Bogarts by now if not for that.

Were the wheels 2 lbs lighter than the stock bullets or was the tire and wheel assy. lighter by 2 lbs, and are you using radials or ET streets? I think the streets are lighter but don't know by how much...

[ArtQ]

Spacers... I run 3/8 front and 1/8 in rear.

Rear, dont NEED to... but... if wipe out axel gear, or anything gets sloppy in the diff... there isnt much tolerance... will likley lock the wheel; so, Im just a little more safe, than WALL!


That seems like a pretty good call Chad, what's the part # for the rears?

[chad05gt]

That seems like a pretty good call Chad, what's the part # for the rears?


First, you can say that again... the $ I spent on R&D on clutches is rediculous... NOT including downtime, fluid, bolts, etc. spent. :drunk:

I misspoke; originally looked for 1/8, couldnt find went w/ 1/4

http://www.jegs.com/i/JEGS/555/65050/10002/-1


3/8 for front

http://www.jegs.com/i/JEGS/555/65051/10002/-1


When's the first run on those 127500's tenatively schedueled??

Well woth the purchase; I use the 2 fronts as 2 'spare' tires; dont take up much space, and b/c NOT Bogarts, trust them on the hwy more than 'do-nut'! ;)

[ArtQ]

When's the first run on those 127500's tenatively schedueled??


I will most likely finish out the NMRA season with the 127300's, if I have time before the shootout I'll try to get them in and tuned, but that will be cutting it tight. Will see....

Thanks for the spacer info.

[ShadyZealot]

My 2 lbs lighter was the same tire. Had a 275/40/17 hooiser DR on my 17 inch bullets.

Put a 275/50/15 hoosier DR on my jegs wheels.

I might look into getting spacers for my rears, even after i grinded caliper a bit to get them to fit that day, it is still really tight, wouldnt be suprised if there was a slight resistance there.

I dont see why people have so much trouble with the oem clutch in these cars. I cut 1.6s and go low 12s on mine no problem. My original one had 75k. Slave started to go bad so when i pulled it i got a low milage pull out oem clutch to replace it. Was only 75$ and seemed like a good idea. That one is holding up no poblem. My original clutch had no signs of slip either

[ArtQ]

Thanks for the info...

I agree at our power levels the stock clutch set-up is fine. I have hit 1.62 and 12.0 with it.

Just trying to squeeze a little more out of a set up with lighter weight components.

The stock clutch is just a bit lazy.

The 10.5" set-up I had from RPS was awsome, super light and lightning quick. The only draw back was it would only last 120-150 runs before it would start dropping ET.
That didn't bother me because it worked so well.
The problem now is they no longer offer that set-up. So off to find a replacement. So far no luck finding anything that worked as well. Had some good ones and some really bad ones since.

[boss281]

Art, despite the problems we both shared with Spec2+ clutches, I have heard pretty good things about the Spec3+ and was targeting that for my next replacement. Heard anything negative about the clutch, or just fed up with lousy customer service, or both?

[chad05gt]

RAM powergrip hd pressure plate
RAM 310 clutch
RAM steel flywheel
oem tob
new pilot bearing:gwave:

[ArtQ]

Art, despite the problems we both shared with Spec2+ clutches, I have heard pretty good things about the Spec3+ and was targeting that for my next replacement. Heard anything negative about the clutch, or just fed up with lousy customer service, or both?


You will never have a problem with a Spec clutch, unless you have a problem with a Spec clutch...

Customer service issues aside:

I dont know for sure if the 3+ uses a Kevlar or and organic clutch disc.

My thoughts on that are; I have found at our power levels the Kevlar is too aggressive to get a decent controllable launch and takes an excessive amount of time to break in. The Power adder guys have the torque to drop the hammer, dead hook and carry the car out of the hole, so bogging is not usually an issue.

I know in the past you said you could drop the hammer on your car and come out without bogging, which leads me to believe your clutch slips a bit on launch and possibly down track, which also leads me to believe that is where you are loosing some ET. Just from experience I always got my best launches (60'+RT) when the clutch was just starting to wear enough to slip. When it got to the point where I did not have to physically slip it I noticed my ET and MPH would drop off.

The stock clutch and flywheel worked well, I just found it a little sluggish off the line and the nose of the car dropped more on the 1-2 shift.

The Zoom I tried was kevlar, it was difficult to control until I had warped the AL flywheel enough to the point it slipped, which also caused a high RPM shift problem..

The Spec 2's I had, also a kevlar disc, was tough to control on launch.
Aside from the other issues they presented

The RPS 10.5" organic disc w/AL flywheel set-up has left me fealing like a Crackhead without a fix since it's no longer available. I have yet to run anything else that was so controllable on launch and lightning quick on shifts. I was willing to rebuild this unit every 150 runs because it was that good.

Right now the Exedy I have is nice, so far the best combo since the RPS, however not as crisp. It has an organic disc. The lightweight billet steel flywheel is impressive and it's controlable on launch.


I feel like the Spec 3+ is a bit too much for a lower torque NA set-up.

I geuss it would help if more lower powered NA guys reported in that have the 3+

[chad05gt]

I know a guy in Beaumont will BUILD your clutch to suit... kevlar, asbestos, you name it... about 100$:)



Triangle Clutch Rebuilders
6330 Washington Blvd
Beaumont, TX 77707



Phone: (409) 842-3630


Will set up pressure plate; whatever you need.

[ArtQ]

Will probably give him a call...Thanks

[rygen]

I took weight measurements, details here:

http://www.s197-mustang.com/forum/showthread.php?t=133

[ArtQ]

I took weight measurements, details here:

http://www.s197-mustang.com/forum/showthread.php?t=133


Thanks Todd, I missed that

Fronts= 15x4 Jegs Wheel w/Kumho 165/80/15 - 29lbs

Need a weight for the rear rims only
and an idea of the weight difference between DOT streets and DOT Drag radials

[chad05gt]

Thanks Todd, I missed that

Fronts= 15x4 Jegs Wheel w/Kumho 165/80/15 - 29lbs

Need a weight for the rear rims only
and an idea of the weight difference between DOT streets and DOT Drag radials

Again, a guess; about 2/3 the weight.

w/ 4.56's, go 28", I went w/ 27" and lost 1.5mph trap.

[rygen]

I think my khumos come in at 17lbs.